Summer in Japan is in full force, but I’m anxiously counting down the days to sweater weather and spooky Halloween delights. I’m also daydreaming about an autumn hike in Mt. Oyama district of Isehara City! Miss M and I went in early June, and we’re looking forward to going back once the weather cools down… Which reminds me that I never wrote a proper mommy-daughter trip report. So, today I invite you to Discover Isehara: What To Do, See and Eat in Oyama, Kanagawa Prefecture.
Discover Isehara: What To See, Do, and Eat in Oyama, Kanagawa Prefecture
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From historic ryokan to breathtaking mountain views and waterfalls, majestic temples, and bustling streets, our adventure in the Oyama district of Isehara City was nothing short of magical! And, did I mention the food?
First let’s start at the beginning.
Where is Oyama?
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Oyama is surrounded by rich nature, located just an hour away from Shinjuku Station on the Odakyu Railway Line. This accessibility means that Isehara city is a perfect day trip destination for Tokyo residents. Plus, the area’s natural blessings and mild climate makes for delicious food and ideal hiking conditions.
Mt. Oyama, a 1,252 meter high mountain within Tanzawa mountain range of Kanagawa Prefecture, is a must-visit Tokyo day trip destination. It’s a place that genuinely caters to everyone, whether you’re an avid hiker or just looking for an opportunity to discover some good old fashioned Japanese charm.
For modern visitors who prefer a more relaxed pace, a nostalgic cable car ride will take you past quaint souvenir shops to the historic Oyama Afuri Jinja shrine and Oyama-dera temple, both in a serene forest overlooking Sagami Bay.
Discover Isehara: What To See, Do, and Eat in Oyama, Kanagawa Prefecture
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What To See
Roben Falls and Atago Falls
We began our journey into Oyama with a scenic bus ride with scenes straight out of a Studio Ghibli film. Lush green surroundings under a bright blue sky, the peaceful atmosphere interrupted only by the gentle bubbling of Roben Falls (良弁滝) in the distance.
Roben Falls often features on tourist guides for its picturesque beauty, but our personal favorite was the more secluded Atago Falls (愛宕滝).
Hidden away from the crowds, Atago Falls offers a more intimate experience with nature, where you can truly feel at one with the surroundings. Waterfalls and rivers seem to be everywhere in this area, each more enchanting than the last.
Chato-dera Temple
Steps away from the hustle and bustle of Koma Sando Street, Chato-dera Temple (茶湯寺) offers a sanctuary of peace and healing. In fact, this temple is also known for its unique ritual called hyaku ichi nichi mairi (百一日参り), a special 101h-day tea offering ceremony dedicated to comforting the spirits of the deceased.
For over 900 years, Chato-dera has continued this sacred tradition, and the tea offered during the ceremony becomes the first offering in the family’s altar, replacing the water previously offered to the deceased.
Chato-dera is an ideal spot for those seeking a more contemplative experience, away from the noise of the world. Whether you’re there to admire the Buddhist Juzo statues, take in the lush surroundings, or simply breathe in the fresh mountain air, Chato-dera Temple is a must-visit on your Oyama adventure.
What To Do
Shinto Scripture Writing at Kasumi Sou
Near Oyama bus stop is Kasumi Sou (かすみ荘), a quaint ryokan (traditional Japanese inn) with a rich history. Originally built as a lodge for pilgrims embarking on the Oyama Pilgrimage, this centuries-old inn offers a unique blend of spiritual and cultural experiences.
One of the highlights of our visit was participating in Shinto scripture writing, a practice known as jousho (浄書). This wasn’t just any calligraphy session—it was a journey inward, where the purpose isn’t perfection, but rather silencing unnecessary thoughts and self-criticism to achieve a state of inner zen.
Miss M even had the chance to put her calligraphy skills to the test, copying sacred scripture while focusing on a personal goal.
In addition to scripture writing, we also had the opportunity to try our hand at a simple tofu-making experience. This hands-on activity allowed us to connect with Japanese culture and history in a meaningful way.
Participants on the Oyama Pilgrimage nourished and hydrated themselves with tofu as they made their way to the various shrines and temples in the area.
The combination of josho calligraphy and tofu-making at Kasumi Sou was a truly enriching experience, offering a perfect balance of spirituality and tradition.
Take a Hike Up To Oyama-dera Temple
Oyama-dera Temple (大山寺) is a historic site that offers both spiritual and scenic beauty.
“Onna-zaka” (女坂) is less strenuous than “Otoko-zaka” (男坂). It took us about 40 minutes to the top via Onna-zaka Trail.The path to the temple is quite steep and can be challenging for young children or those with mobility issues.
Literally the last vending machine on Mt. Oyama!Right outside the cable car station, you’ll find a vending machine with a sign warning that it’s the last one you’ll see before reaching the temple!
The climb up to the temple is a bit of a workout, but the breathtaking view of Sagami Bay from the top makes it all worthwhile. The panoramic view is perfect for commemorative photos.
Once you reach the top, get a scroll fortune that also comes with a charming mizuhiki charm.
Don’t miss the chance to participate in a unique ritual known as kawarake nage (かわらけ投げ). Kawarake is written as “土器” in kanji, meaning “clay dish.”
The kawarake used here are small, 6 cm diameter clay discs with the words “厄除け” (protection from misfortune) inscribed on them. These discs are made from materials that quickly return to the earth.
Visitors are invited to throw the kawarake off a cliff. The act of tossing the disc is believed to ward off evil and bring good fortune. There’s even a 2.5-meter wide fukuwa (福輪) or “lucky ring” at the bottom of the cliff, and if your disc passes through it, it’s said to bring even greater luck.
What to Eat
Street Food at Koma Sando Street
Although the name comes from the Japanese toy spinning top, Koma Sando (こま参道), street is a food lover’s paradise.
The snacks are not only tasty but also fun to eat, especially for kids who can enjoy trying different traditional treats.
The shops offer a wide range of local crafts, trinkets, and unique gifts. It’s a fantastic place to pick up mementos of your trip or gifts for friends and family.
Koma Sando Street is also interactive, with a secret code that you can crack with your crew as you navigate the narrow alleyways.
The popularity of Koma Sando Street means it can become quite crowded, especially on weekends and holidays.
Navigating through the crowd with a young child can be challenging. Visiting during off-peak times might be more enjoyable.
Many shops were unfortunately closed as the cable car was closed for maintenance. It was a shame because we wanted to try the tofu soft serve and giant heart-shaped yaki-senbei.
Fun Fact: the official mascot of Oyama is a koma-shaped character named Kururin.
Tofu, Tofu, TOFU! Tofu Zaka
Oyama/Isehara City is famous for its tofu so naturally we had to try it for ourselves during our visit.
Oyama is famous for its tofu, but Tofu Zaka (“Tofu Hill” // 豆腐坂) was a “miss” with us. With that said, our disappointment is due primarily to the number of shops closed during our visit, which unfortunately coincided with the cable car being closed temporarily for maintenance. Most of the shops open during our visit were a bit out of our budget.
So, we trekked onward to Koma Sando in search of lunch.
Eventually, we ended up at Wachuso (和中荘), which coincidentally is the pioneer shop of tofu dishes, restaurant serving up local home-cooked dishes (家庭料理 // katei ryori) to travelers since the 1970s.
The owners of Wachusou are avid travelers themselves. The main dining hall is tastefully decorated with photos of their travels all over the world.
This is perhaps why they have a bilingual menu as well as an allergen-friendly menu!
We both chose the 3 dish tofu course as well as a side of soba noodles.
I genuinely appreciate the seafood allergy substitutions they made for us.
But, unfortunately everything was substituted with mushrooms, which we dislike very much. With that said, the tofu itself was indeed soft, silky and delicious!
Drinkable Warabi Mochi
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We visited Manmaruya (@manmaruya_dorayaki) to try their “nomu warabimochi,” (飲むわらび餅) a creamy, dreamy and chewy drink featuring the traditional Japanese dessert, warabimochi.
Warabimochi has a softer texture than boba/tapioca pearls, and it practically melts in your mouth.
If you have a sweet tooth, you’ll love strawberry milk. But, as a ~responsible adult~ I went for the cafe latte with black sugar syrup instead. It was pleasantly sweet and oh so addictive. It’s honestly one of the main reasons why we want to go back!
What to wear:
Gear up for an adventure with the right attire to make your trip to Mt. Oyama comfortable and enjoyable.
Sturdy Hiking Boots/Walking Shoes: These are essential for navigating both rugged trails and the more relaxed paths. Ensure your boots are well-broken-in and provide good ankle support and traction to keep you steady on varied terrain.
Layered Clothing: Dress in layers to adapt to changing weather conditions, whether you’re tackling the summit or exploring the base. Start with a moisture-wicking base layer, add an insulating mid-layer, and top it off with a waterproof and wind-resistant outer layer.
My wardrobe is basically UNIQLO/GU, and I wore an Airism UV cut parka, Dry Stretch Yoga Jogger Pants, and brought along my Mountain Parka for evening chills.
Backpack: A small, sturdy backpack will come in handy for carrying essentials like water, snacks, a hiking first-aid kit, and any extra layers you might need. It’s also useful for stashing any souvenirs you pick up along the way. (I used my Nylon Shoulder Bag, but I wish I had a backpack like Miss M!)
Safety Gear: Keep an eye out for local wildlife and be prepared with bear spray or bells to alert any creatures you might encounter.
Also, watch for spiders and leeches, especially if you’re venturing off the beaten path – or just using the outdoor restrooms!
How to get there:
Isehara City is located 60 minutes away from Shinjuku Station via the Odakyu Line/Romance Car.
Around Isehara and Oyama:
From Isehara Station North Exit, take the 伊10 bus bound for Oyama Cable Car Station.
Local transportation service provided by Kanagawa Chuo Kotsu Bus and the Oyama Cable Line. Be sure to make use of both buses and the cable car up Oyama.
Board the bus from back, tap your IC card when boarding, and tap off again when exiting. (An amusing spectacle for Miss M!)
You should know:
Many hikers take this bus, which runs every 20-30 minutes. As a result the morning bus from Isehara Station and afternoon bus from Oyama Cable Car Station can get pretty packed.
Also, be sure to check the operational status of the cable car before leaving. Or make sure you’re up for the extra hike to Oyamadera Temple and Oyama Afuri Jinja Shrine!
Discover Isehara: What To Do, See and Eat in Oyama, Kanagawa Prefecture
Have you visited Isehara City? And if you haven’t yet, what are you waiting for? Start planning your own adventure today!
